Biedermeier Ohrringe

(1820 - 1870)

The ladies of the Biedermeier period favoured pinned-up hair, parted in the middle and arranged in a distinctive chignon at the nape of the neck or the back of the head. Lush corkscrew curls or braided plaits to the side of the face added elegance and provided the perfect stage for elaborate Biedermeier earrings. Find out more ‘

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The departure from classicism

Antique Biedermeier gold earrings were characterised by lush ornamentation in combination with typical regional gemstones such as Bohemian garnet or Italian coral. The strict forms of classicism were largely abandoned in favour of natural motifs such as foliage and flowers, in keeping with the romantic tendencies of the era.

‘All that glitters is not gold’

The political situation immediately after the Napoleonic Wars led to a shortage of precious metals. Biedermeier jewellery was therefore mainly made from foam gold. A sophisticated technique in which thin sheets of gold were pressed or driven into the desired shape and then filled with putty, resin or sand to provide the necessary stability. Base metals such as pinchbeck and tombac were also considered adequate substitutes for gold.

The classic Biedermeier earring

Biedermeier earrings made of foam gold were often factory-made and followed a typical design. A cartouche decorated with volutes, foliage or rocailles provided space for a central stone setting, cameos or miniatures. Cord and beadwork decoration set delicate accents and emphasised the sculptural structure of the jewellery.

Another popular stylistic feature of antique Biedermeier earrings were decorative pendants, which were either attached to the cartouche in large numbers or complemented the earring individually - often in a conical shape.

Earrings and hoops

At the beginning of the Biedermeier period, people also favoured large earrings (now known as hoops), which were decorated on the front with ornamental elements and gemstones. There were often s-shaped elements inside the hoop to prevent the decorated front from slipping.

Lesser known today, Viennese brisures were not uncommon as part of foam gold earrings. These were fastening hooks that - contrary to today's practice - were not fastened behind the earlobe but at the front of the ear.

Turning one into two: changeable ear jewellery

The aforementioned hair fashion of the time was virtually predestined for long, multi-link earrings, which could be worn both during the day and for evening wear thanks to their sophisticated design. They had removable elements that turned the long earring into a shorter model for daytime wear.

In combination with the matching Biedermeier brooches, bangles and necklaces, so-called parures (jewellery sets) were created, which are still precious and sought-after objects on the antique jewellery market today.

Biedermeier jewellery at the Halsbandaffaire

If you would like to buy Biedermeier earrings, our trained experts at Halsbandaffaire will be happy to help and advise you. We will be happy to advise you on our entire range and offer you the opportunity to view our jewellery on site in Munich or order it from the comfort of your own home in our online shop.

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